Whether fruit acid peelings, vitamin A acid creams, or skin care with hyaluronic acid and linoleic acid – various acids play an essential role in skincare and dermatological treatment of acne. Here you can find out which acids are available and how they are used.
Which acids are used against acne?
We believe acne treatment works best when a holistic approach is taken. In addition to dermatological therapy, it can help to adjust skin care, diet, and lifestyle so that acne can be treated effectively and sustainably. Regardless of whether it is in daily skin care or as part of a dermatological treatment – both prescription and non-prescription active ingredients and medicines help to counteract acne adequately. In addition to benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and antibiotics (e.g., clindamycin), various types of acids also play a central role.
The most critical acids against acne:
- Salicylic Acid (common in cleanses) (BHA)
- azelaic acid
- fruit acids (AHA)
- lactic acids
- Vitamin A acid (depending on the dosage, no prescription required or required).
Which acid works against my acne?
Every skin is different – by analyzing your skin type online, the doctors can tell you exactly which acids and other ingredients best suit your skin and thus work best against your acne.
Choose your skin problem
Salicylic acid against acne: effective desquamation with few side effects
Salicylic acid mainly has a keratolytic (horn-dissolving) effect but also has a slightly anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial (against microorganisms/bacteria) effect on the skin. That is why it is combined with other active ingredients, especially in treating mild acne.
Compared to fruit acids (alpha-hydroxy acids / AHA), salicylic acid (beta-hydroxy acids / BHA) penetrates less deeply into the skin and only has a superficial effect on the horny layer. For the treatment of acne, the acid is usually processed in creams or gels. Up to a concentration of 2%, salicylic acid creams and cosmetics are over-the-counter and available in most drugstores.
Drugs with higher concentrations are only available from pharmacies but do not require a prescription. In most cases, agents with salicylic acid are applied thinly to the skin 1-2 times a day. It can take several weeks before the positive effects become visible since severe desquamation (“skin purging”) can occur, especially at the beginning of the treatment. Side effects are generally infrequent, but some patients experience slight skin drying, itching, or a feeling of tightness—a moisturizing cream (essential: non-greasy & no pore-clogging ingredients). During pregnancy, salicylic acid preparations should only be applied to small areas of the skin (< 5 cm2).
Azelaic acid for acne: prescription acid with a wide range of effects
Azelaic acid is a prescription acne treatment starting at 1% concentration and is used to treat mild to moderate acne due to its multiple effects on the skin. This includes:
- Inhibition of inflammation (anti-inflammatory effect)
- Fighting acne bacteria (antibacterial effect)
- Combating keratinization disorders (keratolytic development)
These effects can be achieved, among other things, because azelaic acid – compared to a fruit or salicylic acid – penetrates much deeper into the skin. Usually, azelaic acid is applied to the skin twice daily in creams or gels at a concentration of between 15 and 20%.
The most significant advantage, in addition to the broad profile of effects: Is that even if there may be slight skin irritations (e.g., burning, itching, dryness) at first, azelaic acid is generally very well tolerated and can therefore not only be used for several weeks or months, but also with People with sensitive skin can be used as a basis for long-term maintenance therapy. Since skin irritation can still occur,
Azelaic acid is one of the acne medications that can be prescribed during pregnancy or breastfeeding and is also used in the treatment of rosacea and especially hyperpigmentation.
